Armatures - How to choose them?

What is it?

This is a piece of metal called an underwire that is placed around the cap.

It provides the necessary support for your breasts and reinforces the band in front of your bra.

The choice of your frames will depend on :

• the shape: one type of underwire corresponds to a specific bra shape (triangle, regular, basket, push-up, etc.). This will depend on the comfort and aesthetics you are looking for and therefore also on your morphology.

• the size of your bra

Tips

As you have probably already noticed, the frames have a colourful side that is very useful.

It allows sizes to be identified in relation to each other within the same reference.

But it also indicates the definitive direction in which the framework should be placed: the coloured tip should be positioned in the middle at the level of the breast gap. This is true for all types of frameworks.

Some examples of shapes

The shapes are varied, here are some of the main ones... you will even find mono frames.

The sizes

You should know that each manufacturer has its own size charts. These items are protected by the major brands and are manufactured according to precise specifications.

If you are looking for the exact underwire used by a commercial bra brand, it is impossible to find it in a haberdashery or elsewhere, ...

However, you will find similar underwires in the garment.

Which underwire size for which bra size?

How to make it simple when you can make it complicated... but it's not as difficult as it seems!

To determine the underwire size for a given bra size, you will need to know the bra size.

So :

• the length under the breast

• the size of the cups

Then use the table below as a guide:

*The sizes indicated are the French sizes (the equivalence between French and European sizes. An EU size is equivalent to a FR size minus 15 - for example 90FR = 75EU

So a 95 underwire will fit a 105A, 95B, 90C, 85D, ...

But don't forget that the profile of an underwire is linked to the pattern you are going to use. It is important to choose the right shape for your bra.

A frame that is not adapted to the pattern (profile, size, length of the frame), will make your bra uncomfortable or even impossible to mount.

I have a pattern - How do I choose the underwires?

Check the profile, the length of the underwires with those recommended in the pattern instructions; or those of the bra you wish to reproduce.

The pattern instructions usually specify the frames to be used and even where to buy them. This is a sign of professionalism that guarantees the result.

You can start from the table above and check the suitability of the reinforcement lengths. Be careful not to choose frames longer than those recommended - you will not be able to mount it. They may be a little shorter than the recommended length, up to a maximum of 4-5mm.

The Celeste bra from Eclipse Studio is made with regular underwires and is available on the shop; the same goes for the Luccia model from my brand, so don't hesitate to go to their website (eclipse-studio.com) where you will find a wide range of models and patterns.

Please note that our underwire profiles are monitored items! The underwires are of high quality and have a cross-section that is adapted to the size and therefore resistant.