This is a question I'm regularly asked. In fact, most of our patterns are made with a "curvy" shape. Why is this?
The Size Grid
A pattern is made for a size grid defined by the brand according to its target clientele (e.g. women/men, age, ethnic origin, etc.). To establish a size chart, all the data (e.g. waist circumference, bust length, hip circumference, inseam, etc.) is "sorted" and analysed using mathematical statistical formulae - yes, mathematics is always the answer!
As the size increases, so does the variability of the data - To sum up, and to give a brief example :
- for a size 36: 90% of a given population will have measurements that correspond to the size grid
- whereas for a size 48 only 50% of the population will be.
The larger the size, the more variation there will be between waist size, hip size and bust size, .... hence the difficulty of making a pattern in "large" sizes for ready-to-wear, and what about swimwear, garments with tension lines that are worn fitted.
Morphology
Morphology is different according to ethnic origin, for example. This is why clothes intended for the European market will, for the same size, be different from those intended for the African or American markets, etc.
And where does Curvy fit in?
Curvy means curved
Curvy doesn't mean "fat", curvy means being a woman with curves.
To be able to adapt to different shapes, it's essential to create a pattern with a centre back seam; this will allow the waist darts, back darts, front darts, etc. to be integrated into the design of the swimming costume or garment for a snug, comfortable fit. This is essential as you go up a size!
There are of course different degrees of curvature, but that's another story. In this case, you'll need to go through a pattern-making stage to create a made-to-measure pattern!
As our patterns are generally designed for "large" sizes and "large" cups, we have incorporated the "curvy" shape into their design.
Our patterns have a low to medium degree of curvature to suit as many people as possible.
However, with a few notions of pattern making, the patterns can be easily adapted by the very nature of their design.