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Which thread to use for sewing lingerie

Polyester yarn or foam yarn?

In general, when sewing lingerie, I only use polyester thread: bodysuits, panties, bras, etc. For me, this is the "all-purpose" thread, no need to worry about it. You can use it whatever your machine. You can find it in any haberdashery and the choice of colours is very wide. However, always choose a quality thread to avoid disappointment.

Polyester yarn also has the advantage of being available in small spools of various lengths. Foam yarn is sold in cones of at least 1000m and therefore in much larger lengths.

But when to use the foam thread?

I recommend the use of foam thread in 2 cases:

  • the production of bras for people who are very sensitive to the touch and for whom the polyester thread can be irritating and scratchy.
  • the making of the swimming costumes. It is not really necessary by any means. However, in the presence of water, foam thread "swells". When made with foam thread, the overlock or cover stitch will swell and be softer, especially when wet. Personally, I make almost all swimwear using foam thread. I use n°80 thread (thicker than n°120: yes, the higher the n°, the thinner the thread!) The swelling will be more important and the finish more aesthetic.

However, beware: depending on the sewing machine or overlocker used, the use of foam thread can sometimes be complicated. I personally have never had any real difficulty...but I would like to make it clear

To summarise

If you are just starting to sew lingerie and do not want to take the trouble, polyester thread will be your ally in lingerie and swimwear.

Foam thread is recommended in specific cases such as the creation of swimwear, for example, and particularly if you are using an overlocker and sealer.

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