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Vous avez décidé de coudre vos propres sous-vêtements ? Excellent choix ! Mais avant de vous lancer, une question s’impose : Le coton est excellent pour le confort, la durabilité et le port quotidien. Le lin est également une bonne option pour le confort et la durabilité, mais il a tendance à se froisser. Le chanvre est une autre option durable qui est également confortable et agréable à porter. The choice of fabric is the most important decision for your project. With the wrong fabric, your creation will be uncomfortable, misshapen after a few washes, or simply unpleasant against the skin.
In this guide, we'll present the main fabrics suitable for making underwear, along with their advantages and ideal uses.
Why is the choice of fabric crucial for underwear?
A garment worn next to the skin is in permanent contact with it. It must therefore meet specific requirements:
- Softness The fabric must not irritate or rub against sensitive skin.
- Extensibility : underwear should follow the body's movements without restriction. We're talking about fabric Bi-stretch (bi-stretch) or mono-stretch.
- Breathability for thermal comfort throughout the day.
- Wash stability The fabric must retain its shape and dimensions after numerous washes.
- Maintenance : le tissu doit garder sa forme sans s’avachir.
These criteria vary depending on the type of underwear you are making: panties, boxers, bras, camisoles… Each will have its specific needs.
2. Cotton jersey: the comfortable base fabric
Le Cotton jumper est sans conteste le tissu le plus utilisé pour coudre des sous-vêtements. C’est une maille douce, agréable au toucher et naturellement respirante. Il est particulièrement recommandé pour les Panties, where contact with the skin is most direct.
Its strengths:
- Natural softness for the skin
- Breathability thanks to cotton fibres
- Facilité d’entretien
- Available in a wide range of colours and prints
Le jersey peut être extensible ou peu stretch selon sa composition. La présence d’élasthanne dans le tissu augmente son extensibilité. Pour les sous-vêtements, un jersey avec une bonne extensibilité est idéal car il épousera le corps sans serrer.
At Idonim, you'll find a wide selection of Jersey fabric suitable for underwear, perfect for making briefs, knickers and bra bottoms.
3. Lycra / elastane polyamide: for optimal support
Fabrics lycra and stretch sont les champions du maintien et de la liberté de mouvement. Extensibles dans les deux sens, ils s’adaptent parfaitement aux courbes du corps et reviennent à leur forme initiale après chaque port.
These fabrics are particularly suitable for:
- Boxers (men's and women's)
- Shapewear briefs or sports briefs
- Sports bras and bralettes
- Camisoles and bodysuits
Soft and pleasant to wear, they offer maximum comfort for everyday use. Their excellent two-way stretch ensures optimal freedom of movement, essential for underwear worn all day.
If you wish to carry out Panties pattern, for the best results, bi-stretch fabrics like Lycra or jerseys with elastane are recommended.
4. Stretch lace: for women's lingerie
La stretch lace est incontournable pour réaliser de la lingerie féminine raffinée. Elle apporte une touche d’élégance et de féminité à vos créations tout en conservant le confort nécessaire à un sous-vêtement.
On l’utilise principalement :
- On the edges of knickers or bras
- For bra cups
- For nightdresses and bodysuits
- En association avec d’autres tissus (jersey pour le fond, dentelle pour les côtés)
The key to choosing your lace: opt for a lace extensible (et non rigide) afin qu’elle suive les mouvements du corps sans créer de contrainte. Une dentelle mono-stretch conviendra pour des zones peu sollicitées, tandis qu’une dentelle bi-stretch sera préférable pour tout ce qui doit s’adapter à la morphologie.
Discover our range of lingerie fabrics, including lace, satins and fine jerseys selected for the making of quality underwear.
5. Where to buy your lingerie fabrics?
Choisir un tissu adapté à la couture de sous-vêtements ne s’improvise pas. Il est essentiel de s’approvisionner auprès d’une mercerie spécialisée qui propose des tissus pensés pour cet usage : extensibilité adaptée, douceur garantie, qualité éprouvée.
At home Idonim, We offer a rigorous selection of fabrics for the creation of lingerie and underwear:
- Jerseys soft, breathable, ideal for panty liners and everyday underwear.
- Lingerie fabrics Our full range dedicated to the creation of lingerie and swimwear, stretch and non-stretch.
- Satin : fin, lisse et brillant, pour les nuisettes et pièces de lingerie chic.
- Stretch velvet : doux et légèrement brillant, pour bodies, justaucorps et tenues de danse ou pièces festives.
- Powernet : le tissu mesh qui structure vos soutiens-gorge faits main.
To help you with your projects, we have also written specific guides:
- Which fabric to choose to make the First knickers? — our must-have knicker pattern, available on the website.
Whether you're a beginner at sewing or an experienced seamstress, sewing your own underwear is a rewarding experience. You choose your fabrics, your colours, and most importantly, you get a result that is perfectly suited to your body shape.
Ready to get started? Explore our shop and find the ideal fabric for your next lingerie sewing project!
Vos questions fréquentes sur le choix du tissu
Cotton is generally the easiest fabric to sew, particularly recommended for beginners due to its stability and ease of handling.
In lingerie: opt for the Cotton jumper, thanks to its comfortable stretch.
For the swimwear : textiles jacquard swimwear offers the necessary technical properties (chlorine resistance, quick drying) while remaining easy to sew.
Opt for the Cotton jersey. Il est idéal pour s’initier à la couture parce qu’il est facile à coudre parce que moins glissant qu’un lycra traditionnel. Notamment pour vos créations en lingerie.
Privileged to have Cotton jumper extensible or of Lycra fabric for lingerie from 110 to 160 g/m2
| Type of fabric | Origin | Features | Examples of use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lycra | Synthetic (elastane) | Very stretchy, form-fitting, comfortable | Sportswear, swimwear |
| Lace | Variable (often cotton or synthetic) | Delicate, openwork, decorative | Dresses, lingerie, textile decor |
| Jacquard | Woven (technical, not material) | Complex patterns integrated into the weave | Upholstery, curtains, smart clothes |
| Cotton | Natural (plant) | Soft, breathable, easy to maintain | T-shirts, sheets, jeans |
| Linen | Natural (plant) | Lightweight, absorbent, creases easily | Summer clothes, tablecloths, curtains |
| Wool | Natural (animal) | Warm, insulating, elastic | Jumpers, coats, scarves |
| Silk | Natural (animal) | Light, smooth, shiny, luxurious | Lingerie, scarves, dresses |
| Hemp | Natural (plant) | Resistant, ecological, breathable | Organic clothing, bags, curtains |
| Bamboo | Natural (processed plant) | Soft, antibacterial, environmentally friendly | Underwear, towels |
| Polyester | Synthetic | Resistant, crease-resistant, quick-drying | Sportswear, curtains, bags |
| Nylon | Synthetic | Lightweight, strong, elastic, water-resistant | Tights, swimwear, bags |
| Acrylic | Synthetic | Warm, wool-like, lightfast | Jumpers, blankets, rugs |
| Spandex | Synthetic | Highly stretchable, lightweight, durable | Sportswear, leggings |
| Viscose (rayon) | Semi-synthetic | Soft, fluid, silky appearance | Blouses, dresses, linings |
| Modal / Lyocell | Semi-synthetic | Environmentally friendly, soft, absorbent | Underwear, sheets, soft clothing |
| Velvet | Can be natural or synthetic | Soft, textured, luxurious | Furniture, jackets, curtains |
| Denim | Thick cotton | Resistant, robust, used for jeans | Jeans, jackets, bags |
| Tweed | Wool (often mixed) | Rough, warm, textured | Coats, jackets, suits |