The fabric of a bra

Sewing your own lingerie is a beautiful and creative experience. However, it can be a scary and complex exercise. That's why when you use a new pattern, I advise you to make a canvas before sewing the final bra.

What is a canvas?

A canvas is a prototype of the finished product you want to make.

This allows us to check the size and determine the necessary adjustments to ensure that the model fits perfectly.

The aim is to make a reproduction of the final model in a cheap fabric without finishing or lining.

Making a bra takes time. There is nothing more discouraging than making a bra that doesn't fit perfectly.

Making a prototype will also allow you to practise the different stages of assembly.

Supplies

What to look out for?

1. Always refer to the pattern and the list of recommended supplies
2. The bra, Luccia type, must be made with a fabric non-stretch for the basque and the bonnets: for example a light coloured cotton fabric. You can then easily draw on it to indicate any modifications to be made.
3. Only the back strips are made of fabric stretch.
4. It is advisable to choose a "temporary" fabric with characteristics and weight similar to the chosen fabric. Use the same elastics as for the final bra to avoid differences in stretch and therefore in fit.

 

Assembly

Once your size has been defined, the pattern is raised:

• Cut the different parts of the bra with the seam values given by the pattern, except for the neckline (high cup), for which no seam value will be taken.
• Assemble your bra without lining or topstitching, following the instructions on the pattern.
• Put on the canvas and watch

 

What do you need to observe?

1. Does the underwire encircle the chest well?

2. Is the value of the pattern's breastbone good? Or should it be reduced/increased in width and/or height?

3. Does the armhole fit snugly against the body?

4. Does the cup cover the breast well?

5. Are the shoulder straps properly positioned?

6. Check the size of the cups and the length of the underbust. If your breasts are flat then your underbust is too small and the cups will also look too small. If the underbust length is too long, the cups will look too big, so adjust the clip position.

• If necessary, mark your corrections on the canvas.
• Transfer the changes to the pattern.

The result

Idonim includes a technical booklet with its patterns to help you modify your pattern according to the problems most often encountered.

The prototype stage can seem like a waste of time; we are tempted to skip it. Resist this temptation! A pattern often needs to be adjusted.

It would be a shame to have used and wasted fabric. So take the time to make a canvas before cutting into that pretty lace from your favourite shop.