Before you start designing an adjusted stretch garment, it's essential to understand the concept of tension lines and anchor points. They allow you to stabilise the garment. This is a very important concept in the bathing world, but you can also find it on a bra.

What generates voltage lines?

• the fabric's ability to bounce back and stretch
• the discount rate

When you apply tension to a stretch fabric (when you stretch it) the fabric will naturally shrink in the perpendicular (at 90 degrees). The fabric will compensate for the tension you apply in one direction by reducing the tension in the other. This phenomenon is linked to the type of fabric used. When you apply tension to a stretch fabric, it naturally tends to shrink in the direction of the tension. right-angled.

This is a more or less marked characteristic of stetch fabrics; swimwear fabrics are particularly affected.

When 2 lines meet we talk about anchor point - it's a point of stability.

These are fairly complex/abstract concepts for some people, but they can be understood empirically. 

Where do the power lines run?

To understand where the tension will go in the swimming costume, it's important to understand how the garment/suit will behave when you move. The swimming costume will always move where voltage is lowest !

In short, you need to concentrate and understand where the power lines run and where the anchor points are. The design of a stretch garment is all about finding the optimum position for the tension lines and anchor points, depending on the design and style required. And obtaining uniform tensions.

Some examples of tension lines and anchor points :

• around the neck
• in the line of the ramps
• around the waist

A few concrete examples

If the voltages are not uniform, you will see folds or the bikini will not fit snugly against the bust or conversely will be too "tight" ... Tensions can be adjusted by increasing or reducing the lengths (at certain points) (i.e. by reducing or increasing the rate of reduction at certain points).

Analysis of a commercial jersey found on the internet (used for training purposes only)

This jersey has no horizontal stability lines 

• the plunging back does not provide a stable line at the waist.
• The high leg opening line does not allow for stability at the hips.
• No horizontal stability at the chest

What about vertical stability? - It exists or "can" exist

Vertical stability, on the other hand, will be affected to a greater or lesser extent by :

• the stature of the person wearing the swimming costume (see bust length)
• position of shoulder straps according to shoulder width and shape
• morphology

This style of jersey will require optimisation of the horizontal and vertical reduction rates adapted to this style in order to design a ready-to-wear (RTW) jersey so that it can be worn by as many people as possible. 

A few changes or adaptations to the design could improve the port.

I'll try to find another example with folds ... if you have an example, don't hesitate to send it to me to complete the article.