Discover how to double your lingerie pieces with a reverso" type.

But what is it?

• The lining is made from the same lycra fabric as that used to make the lingerie - This type of design is found in swimwear, sports bras and soft bras.

 

Why a reverso assembly?

• improve the look and finish of the garment: no visible seams with a sandwich-type assembly. Perfect finishes, for a second-skin effect!
• You don't need a serger - a simple sewing machine will do the trick!
• increase the rebound power of the fabric by reducing the degree of stretch; the garment therefore remains comfortable, but beware of the impact on the degree of stretch

 

Let's talk technology and design

I wanted to write a paragraph on this subject because it is often overlooked in the design of stretch garments made in "reverso".

By lining a lycra piece with the same fabric as the one used on the outside, the extensibility of the outer side will be altered. The consequences are :

• the reduction rate will be reduced - the boss will therefore have to adapt to the new reduction rate.

For example, a jersey made from a lycra stretch fabric (190g/m2 - 8O% PA/ 20% EA) lined with a foam fabric lining (90g/m2 - 100%PA) is designed for a reduction rate of 12%.

En le doublant dans le même tissu lycra (190g/m2 -80%PA/20%EA) le taux de réduction devra être adapté à 6-7%. Parfois le taux pourra même être de 4%.

• the fabric on the wrong side will create stress on the fabric on the right side. That's why jerseys made on the reverse will roll right side up!

It's for this very reason that I always recommend using a specific fabric for lining swimming costumes. Yes, I'll be blunt, I'm not a fan of reservo lining! So avoid it, except in exceptional circumstances of course... 

 

We would therefore like to draw your attention to the choice of fabrics and linings you select; it is essential to follow the recommendations given in the pattern you are going to use. Reverso" assembly means that the pattern is designed for this type of assembly and the choice of materials is appropriate.

 

You can use this type of assembly to make our patterns Maria and Nina available in our shop.

 

Supplies used in the tutorial

The purpose of this article is not to analyse or recommend one supply over another, but to guide you through the assembly of the lining on the basis of a concrete example.

In our example, the lining is made from the same stretch fabric as the outside of the cups of a "soft bra".

• lycra-type fabric for the outside of the cups
• lycra-type fabric for the inside of the cups
• a sewing machine

The tutorial and its tips

• Position the pattern pieces on the fabric

Change the position of the stretch direction of the pieces forming the lining by positioning it at 90° to the pieces forming the front of the garment.

Shifting the stretch directions by 90° will reduce the stretch of the pieces and stabilise the garment, while preserving a little stretch for comfort when worn. 

Comment: If you don't offset the pieces by 90°, the degree of stretch will also be reduced, but less compared to a version offset by 90°. The stretch directions of the fabric on the front and back of the garment will be parallel.

**For bra cups, it's a good idea to rotate the pieces by 90°. This is less the case for panties. However, you can use this technique to stabilise a panty yoke at the front, or to make a more sheathing piece without using a powernet.

If there's one thing to remember, it's these!

 

• cut out the different parts (in the example, the bra cups)

I strongly advise you to mark your pieces, specifying the right side - reverse - with the pieces forming the front and back of the garment.

• cut out the various parts

Continue assembly according to the recommended assembly range

• Superimpose the pieces forming the front of the cups: on the middle line : location on location.

          Proceed in the same way for the pieces forming the lining of the cups: location on location.

          Overlay the 2 previous sets

          Pin the 4 layers together.

• Assemble along the centre line

  - with an overlock stitch machine.

  OR

  - This is the easiest option if you're just starting out.

  

• Overlay and pin the side cups (fabric and lining) to the pre-assembled cups - assemble on their assembly line as follows:

 

• Assemble the 4 layers together

  - with an overlock stitch machine.

  OR

  - This is the easiest option if you're just starting out.

 

Unfold and you'll see that the seam allowances are sandwiched together, guaranteeing a beautiful finish both inside and out.