What is the discount rate?

We have already discussed this concept in the basic knowledge section.

This is the reduction rate applied to the measurements on the size chart when making a pattern. The reduction rate can be horizontal or vertical.

As indicated, it is generally directly linked to the stretch qualities of the fabric(s) and the comfort required, but also to the design of the garment.

 

What discount rates and for what applications?

I'm going to give you a general idea of the reduction rates I use for different applications and for a given type of fabric (classic for the application taken as an example).

 

• Panty/shorty design:

- 140g/m2 PA fabric - EA : 15%

Our lingerie patterns are generally designed with a horizontal reduction rate of 8%.

 

• Body design:

- 140g/m2 PA fabric - EA : 15%

They are generally designed with a horizontal reduction rate of 8%; you can add a vertical reduction rate of 4%.

If the bodysuit has thin or not very wide straps, the verticality rate will be maintained at 0%.

 

• Designing a swimming costume:

- 200g/m2 PA fabric - EA : 20%

Swimwear patterns are designed with a horizontal reduction rate of 12-15%

The vertical reduction rate is generally 0%.

 

• Design of a classic bra with underwiring:

The parts forming the cups and basque are all designed without reduction rates - they are known as blocked.

The back bands are designed with a horizontal reduction rate of 15 to 20% (depending on the type of fabric and elastic used).

 

And now for the exceptions

The exceptions can be many and varied. But let's take a look at a few of them.

• Non-stretch or low-stretch fabric panels

If your garment has inserts, yokes or parts made from non-stretch fabrics, be careful not to apply the discount rate across the entire width, ...

 

• The design of the garment

Thinner parts always stretch more than a wider part. I've used a one-piece swimming costume with straps as an example, compared with a comby-type swimming costume for which I recommend applying both a horizontal and vertical reduction rate.

 

 

• Flockings

If your garment has non-stretch applications or bead "inlays", these will have an impact on the garment's stretchability depending on their number and position (similar to the case with non-stretch fabrics); it is essential to ensure that they are placed on the garment: place them or stick them on the "stretched" garment designed with the appropriate reduction rate. You can place it on a mannequin or the person who will be wearing it to place the different motifs to achieve a perfect result.