{"id":44146,"date":"2025-04-05T22:26:22","date_gmt":"2025-04-05T20:26:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/?p=44146"},"modified":"2025-04-06T11:31:33","modified_gmt":"2025-04-06T09:31:33","slug":"how-to-pattern-the-twin-sizes-of-a-bra","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/en\/how-to-pattern-the-twin-sizes-of-a-bra\/","title":{"rendered":"How to pattern twin bra sizes"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>It often happens that a bra pattern doesn't offer all sizes, especially when you go outside the so-called \"standard\" sizes.<\/p>\n<p>However, with a few notions of gradation and a good understanding of the construction of the model, it is perfectly possible to adapt an existing pattern to a size that is not on the table.<\/p>\n<p>The aim of this article is to provide step-by-step guidance for those wishing to pattern a new size. We'll look at how to identify the pattern's grading logic, adjust the different pieces and check the consistency of the result.<\/p>\n<p>Please note that this article does not cover the techniques for adjusting the pattern to your measurements and morphology, but only how to make new sizes outside the size chart.<\/p>\n<p>This article focuses on generalities, but be aware that every pattern is based on a list of supplies and a shape (style) which can influence the grading and design parameters. I therefore strongly advise you to make a prototype after patternmaking to validate or even adapt the pattern obtained. And this is <strong>even truer<\/strong> for large sizes, very large cups, small and large backs.<\/p>\n<p>To support this article, I'm going to suggest that you work from the LILLY bra pattern. An example will be much easier to follow and understand.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_44148\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-44148\" style=\"width: 212px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/liste-tailles-patron-lilly-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-44148\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/liste-tailles-patron-lilly-1-212x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"212\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/liste-tailles-patron-lilly-1-212x300.jpg 212w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/liste-tailles-patron-lilly-1-8x12.jpg 8w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/liste-tailles-patron-lilly-1-106x150.jpg 106w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/liste-tailles-patron-lilly-1.jpg 420w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 212px) 100vw, 212px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-44148\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">lilly-1 pattern size list<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<ul>\n<li>Identify<strong> the size<\/strong> to create<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Example: we are going to create size 85F<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Identify <strong>the \"twin\" size<\/strong> using the table below<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_44151\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-44151\" style=\"width: 212px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/taille-des-armatures-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-44151\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/taille-des-armatures-1-212x300.jpg\" alt=\"frame size-1\" width=\"212\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/taille-des-armatures-1-212x300.jpg 212w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/taille-des-armatures-1-8x12.jpg 8w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/taille-des-armatures-1-106x150.jpg 106w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/taille-des-armatures-1.jpg 420w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 212px) 100vw, 212px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-44151\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">frame size-1<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Underwiring and cups<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The underwire and cups will be identical to the underwire and cup parts of the twin size.<\/p>\n<p>In our case, the frame will be a regular frame size 105.<\/p>\n<p>The 3 pieces of each cup will be size 105 (equivalent\/same volume as a size 105B cup).<\/p>\n<p>All modifications to the basque and back straps will be made using the parts named ar105 on the pattern, i.e. the parts corresponding to frame 105.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The modification of <strong>the Basque<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<figure id=\"attachment_44155\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-44155\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/basque-105-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-44155\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/basque-105-1-300x190.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"190\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/basque-105-1-300x190.jpg 300w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/basque-105-1-18x12.jpg 18w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/basque-105-1-150x95.jpg 150w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/basque-105-1.jpg 749w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-44155\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">patronage basque 105<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Don't reduce the width of the basque, otherwise you won't be able to position the frame cover when you sew it on.<\/p>\n<p>Part 90E will become your part 85F<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The modification of <strong>the back band<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Step 1: select the 90E back band (corresponding to the 90E basque) and join it to the basque as shown below.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_44156\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-44156\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-44156\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-1-300x119.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"119\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-1-300x119.jpg 300w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-1-18x7.jpg 18w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-1-150x60.jpg 150w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-1.jpg 736w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-44156\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">back band pattern - step 1<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Step 2: draw a straight line perpendicular to the axis (centre front) and passing through the bending point of the bonnet assembly line.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_44157\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-44157\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-44157\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-2-300x149.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"149\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-2-300x149.jpg 300w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-2-768x380.jpg 768w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-2-18x9.jpg 18w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-2-150x74.jpg 150w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-2.jpg 808w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-44157\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">back band pattern - step 2<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Step 3: Calculate the corrected under-chest measurement, including the stretch of the back band and the size of the clip used.<\/p>\n<p>X (corrected underbust) = (underbust -4) x 0.85 \/2<\/p>\n<p>Draw a point at distance X on the line shown in red above.<\/p>\n<p>Then draw a vertical line through the end of line X<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_44159\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-44159\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-3.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-44159\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-3-300x149.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"149\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-3-300x149.jpg 300w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-3-768x380.jpg 768w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-3-18x9.jpg 18w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-3-150x74.jpg 150w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-3.jpg 808w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-44159\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">back band pattern - step 3<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Step 4: trace the assembly line of the staple - in our case 57mm for a 3\u00d73 staple.<\/p>\n<p>and reposition the strap position to 1\/3 of the armhole line<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_44160\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-44160\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-4.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-44160\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-4-300x152.jpg\" alt=\"back band pattern - step 4\" width=\"300\" height=\"152\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-4-300x152.jpg 300w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-4-768x388.jpg 768w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-4-18x9.jpg 18w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-4-150x76.jpg 150w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-etape-4.jpg 792w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-44160\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">back band pattern - step 4<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>This will give you the new back band corresponding to your size; in our case 85F.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_44162\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-44162\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-44162\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-300x152.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"152\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-300x152.jpg 300w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-768x388.jpg 768w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-18x9.jpg 18w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos-150x76.jpg 150w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/patronage-bande-dos.jpg 792w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-44162\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">back band pattern<\/figcaption><\/figure>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Il arrive souvent qu&rsquo;un patron de soutien gorge ne propose pas toutes les tailles, notamment lorsqu&rsquo;on sort des tailles dites \u00a0\u00bbstandard\u00a0\u00bb. Pourtant avec quelques notions de gradation et une bonne compr\u00e9hension de la construction du mod\u00e8le, il est tout \u00e0 fait possible d&rsquo;adapter un patron existant \u00e0 une taille absente [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":46596,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[667],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-44146","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-patronage"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Comment patronner les tailles jumelles d&#039;un soutien gorge - Idonim Lingerie<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/en\/how-to-pattern-the-twin-sizes-of-a-bra\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Comment patronner les tailles jumelles d&#039;un soutien gorge - Idonim Lingerie\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Il arrive souvent qu&rsquo;un patron de soutien gorge ne propose pas toutes les tailles, notamment lorsqu&rsquo;on sort des tailles dites \u00a0\u00bbstandard\u00a0\u00bb. Pourtant avec quelques notions de gradation et une bonne compr\u00e9hension de la construction du mod\u00e8le, il est tout \u00e0 fait possible d&rsquo;adapter un patron existant \u00e0 une taille absente [&hellip;]\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/en\/how-to-pattern-the-twin-sizes-of-a-bra\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Idonim Lingerie\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2025-04-05T20:26:22+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2025-04-06T09:31:33+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/liste-tailles-patron-lilly-1.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"420\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"595\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Chantal Petit\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Chantal Petit\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Estimated reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/comment-patronner-les-tailles-jumelles-dun-soutien-gorge\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/comment-patronner-les-tailles-jumelles-dun-soutien-gorge\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Chantal Petit\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/59dc2a20f35856fd1701dbb2efa22cd9\"},\"headline\":\"Comment patronner les tailles jumelles d&rsquo;un soutien gorge\",\"datePublished\":\"2025-04-05T20:26:22+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2025-04-06T09:31:33+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/comment-patronner-les-tailles-jumelles-dun-soutien-gorge\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":646,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/comment-patronner-les-tailles-jumelles-dun-soutien-gorge\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2025\\\/10\\\/article-rectangle.webp\",\"articleSection\":[\"patronage\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/comment-patronner-les-tailles-jumelles-dun-soutien-gorge\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/comment-patronner-les-tailles-jumelles-dun-soutien-gorge\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/comment-patronner-les-tailles-jumelles-dun-soutien-gorge\\\/\",\"name\":\"Comment patronner les tailles jumelles d'un soutien gorge - 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