{"id":39688,"date":"2024-08-04T22:54:25","date_gmt":"2024-08-04T20:54:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/?p=39688"},"modified":"2024-11-01T15:34:56","modified_gmt":"2024-11-01T14:34:56","slug":"stretch-garment-patternmaking-part-4-tension-lines-and-anchoring-points","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/en\/stretch-garment-patternmaking-part-4-tension-lines-and-anchoring-points\/","title":{"rendered":"Stretch garment patternmaking - part 4 - tension lines and anchor points"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Before you start designing an adjusted stretch garment, it's essential to understand the concept of tension lines and anchor points. They allow you to <strong>stabilise<\/strong> the garment. This is a very important concept in the bathing world, but you can also find it on a bra.<\/p>\r\n<h1>What generates voltage lines?<\/h1>\r\n<ul>\r\n<li>the fabric's ability to bounce back and stretch<\/li>\r\n<li>the discount rate<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<p>When you apply tension to a stretch fabric (when you stretch it) the fabric will naturally shrink in the <strong>perpendicular<\/strong> (at 90 degrees). The fabric will compensate for the tension you apply in one direction by reducing the tension in the other. This phenomenon is linked to the type of fabric used. When you apply tension to a stretch fabric, it naturally tends to shrink in the direction of the tension. <strong>right-angled<\/strong>.<\/p>\r\n<p>This is a more or less marked characteristic of stetch fabrics; swimwear fabrics are particularly affected.<\/p>\r\n<p>When 2 lines meet we talk about <strong>anchor point<\/strong> - it's a point of <strong>stability<\/strong>.<\/p>\r\n<h1><!-- \/wp:post-content -->\r\n\r\n<!-- wp:paragraph --><\/h1>\r\n<p>These are fairly complex\/abstract concepts for some people, but they can be understood empirically.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<h1>Where do the power lines run?<\/h1>\r\n<p>To understand where the tension will go in the swimming costume, it's important to understand how the garment\/suit will behave when you move. The swimming costume will always move where <strong>voltage is lowest<\/strong> !<\/p>\r\n<!-- \/wp:paragraph -->\r\n\r\n<!-- wp:paragraph -->\r\n<p>In short, you need to concentrate and understand where the power lines run and where the anchor points are. <strong>The design of a stretch garment is all about finding the optimum position for the tension lines and anchor points, depending on the design and style required. And obtaining uniform tensions.<\/strong><\/p>\r\n<!-- \/wp:paragraph -->\r\n\r\n<!-- wp:paragraph -->\r\n<p>Some examples of tension lines and anchor points :<\/p>\r\n<!-- \/wp:paragraph -->\r\n\r\n<!-- wp:list -->\r\n<ul>\r\n<li>around the neck<\/li>\r\n<li>in the line of the ramps<\/li>\r\n<li>around the waist<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-2024-03-29-231655.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-39715 alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-2024-03-29-231655-166x300.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"166\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-2024-03-29-231655-166x300.png 166w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-2024-03-29-231655-7x12.png 7w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-2024-03-29-231655-83x150.png 83w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-2024-03-29-231655.png 330w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 166px) 100vw, 166px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-2024-03-29-231655.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-39716\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-2024-03-29-231655-166x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"166\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-2024-03-29-231655-166x300.jpg 166w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-2024-03-29-231655-7x12.jpg 7w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-2024-03-29-231655-83x150.jpg 83w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-2024-03-29-231655.jpg 248w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 166px) 100vw, 166px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\r\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-bis.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-39717 alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-bis-233x300.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"233\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-bis-233x300.png 233w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-bis-9x12.png 9w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-bis-116x150.png 116w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-bis.png 402w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 233px) 100vw, 233px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-bis.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-39718\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-bis-233x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"233\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-bis-233x300.jpg 233w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-bis-9x12.jpg 9w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-bis-116x150.jpg 116w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-bis.jpg 302w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 233px) 100vw, 233px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\r\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/lignes-tensions.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-39719\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/lignes-tensions-200x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/lignes-tensions-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/lignes-tensions-8x12.jpg 8w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/lignes-tensions-100x150.jpg 100w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/lignes-tensions.jpg 526w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\r\n<!-- \/wp:list -->\r\n\r\n<!-- wp:paragraph -->\r\n<h1>A few concrete examples<\/h1>\r\n<p>If the voltages are not uniform, you will see <strong>folds or the bikini will not fit snugly against the bust<\/strong> or conversely will be too \"tight\" ... Tensions can be adjusted by increasing or reducing the lengths (at certain points) (i.e. by reducing or increasing the rate of reduction at certain points).<\/p>\r\n<p>Analysis of a commercial jersey found on the internet (used for training purposes only)<\/p>\r\n<!-- \/wp:paragraph -->\r\n\r\n<!-- wp:paragraph -->\r\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-39722\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/ligne-de-tension-2-182x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"182\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/ligne-de-tension-2-182x300.jpg 182w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/ligne-de-tension-2-7x12.jpg 7w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/ligne-de-tension-2-91x150.jpg 91w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/ligne-de-tension-2.jpg 406w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 182px) 100vw, 182px\" \/><\/p>\r\n<p>This jersey has no horizontal stability lines\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<ul>\r\n<li>the plunging back does not provide a stable line at the waist.<\/li>\r\n<li>The high leg opening line does not allow for stability at the hips.<\/li>\r\n<li>No horizontal stability at the chest<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<p>What about vertical stability? - It exists or \"can\" exist<\/p>\r\n<p>Vertical stability, on the other hand, will be affected to a greater or lesser extent by :<\/p>\r\n<ul>\r\n<li>the stature of the person wearing the swimming costume (see bust length)<\/li>\r\n<li>position of shoulder straps according to shoulder width and shape<\/li>\r\n<li>morphology<\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<p>This style of jersey will require optimisation of the horizontal and vertical reduction rates adapted to this style in order to design a ready-to-wear (RTW) jersey so that it can be worn by as many people as possible.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<p>A few changes or adaptations to the design could improve the port.<\/p>\r\n<p>I'll try to find another example with folds ... if you have an example, don't hesitate to send it to me to complete the article.<\/p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Avant commencer la conception d&rsquo;un v\u00eatement extensible ajust\u00e9 il est primordial de connaitre la notion de lignes de tension et points d&rsquo;ancrage. Ils permettent de stabiliser le v\u00eatement. C&rsquo;est une notion tr\u00e8s importante dans le milieu baln\u00e9aire mais vous pouvez aussi la retrouver sur un soutien gorge. Qu&rsquo;est ce qui [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":46596,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[667],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-39688","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-patronage"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Le patronage d&#039;un v\u00eatement extensible - partie 4 - les lignes de tension et points d&#039;ancrage - Idonim Lingerie<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Avec cet article vous allez apprendre ce que sont les lignes de tension et points d&#039;ancrage ; notions utiles dans la conception des maillots\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/en\/stretch-garment-patternmaking-part-4-tension-lines-and-anchoring-points\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Le patronage d&#039;un v\u00eatement extensible - partie 4 - les lignes de tension et points d&#039;ancrage - Idonim Lingerie\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Avec cet article vous allez apprendre ce que sont les lignes de tension et points d&#039;ancrage ; notions utiles dans la conception des maillots\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/en\/stretch-garment-patternmaking-part-4-tension-lines-and-anchoring-points\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Idonim Lingerie\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2024-08-04T20:54:25+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2024-11-01T14:34:56+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/Capture-decran-2024-03-29-231655-166x300.png\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Chantal Petit\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Chantal Petit\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Estimated reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/le-patronage-vetement-extensible-partie-4-les-lignes-de-tension-et-points-ancrage\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/le-patronage-vetement-extensible-partie-4-les-lignes-de-tension-et-points-ancrage\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Chantal Petit\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/59dc2a20f35856fd1701dbb2efa22cd9\"},\"headline\":\"Le patronage d&rsquo;un v\u00eatement extensible &#8211; 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