{"id":39647,"date":"2024-08-05T13:49:28","date_gmt":"2024-08-05T11:49:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/?p=39647"},"modified":"2024-11-01T15:35:20","modified_gmt":"2024-11-01T14:35:20","slug":"adapting-an-extensible-pattern-part-3-to-horizontal","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/en\/adapting-an-extensible-pattern-part-3-to-horizontal\/","title":{"rendered":"Adapting an expandable pattern - part 3 - horizontally"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>In this article, we'll look at a number of different concepts to identify whether the pattern needs to be adapted:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>to size<\/li>\n<li>around the hips<\/li>\n<li>below chest<\/li>\n<li>chest size<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h1>Table of measurements<\/h1>\n<p>Before talking about fitting, you need to know the table of measurements used to design a pattern, and this applies whatever the garment to be fitted.<\/p>\n<p>Below is the table of measurements used to design our patterns (the main measurements needed to understand this article).<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/MENSURATIONS-blog-FR.pdf\">MENSURATIONS - blog FR<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/MENSURATIONS-blog-EN-1.pdf\">MENSURATIONS - blog - EN<\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h1>Waist size adjustment<\/h1>\n<ul>\n<li>Determine the difference between your waist circumference and the reference table waist circumference:<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>actual waist measurement - table waist measurement<\/p>\n<p>In the next step, you will need to distribute the gap between the different pieces of the pattern. The gap will be evenly distributed on the back and front along the waist line.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The corrective value to be applied to the pattern - to be divided between the pieces forming the front and back is :<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>((actual waist measurement - table waist measurement) \/ 4 ) x reduction rate<\/p>\n<p>If the value is positive, the number of cm will be added.<\/p>\n<p>If the value is negative, the number of cm must be reduced.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-taille-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-39830\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-taille-1-300x132.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"132\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-taille-1-300x132.jpg 300w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-taille-1-1024x449.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-taille-1-768x337.jpg 768w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-taille-1-18x8.jpg 18w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-taille-1-150x66.jpg 150w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-taille-1-900x395.jpg 900w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-taille-1.jpg 1192w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Example for a size 38 and a discount rate of 15%<\/p>\n<p>Waist measurement: 68cm<\/p>\n<p>Measured waist: 73cm<\/p>\n<p>Corrective value to be applied to the pattern on the back and front: ((73-68)\/4)x0.85 =(5\/4)x0.85=1.06cm<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Example for a size 38 and a discount rate of 15%<\/p>\n<p>Waist measurement: 68cm<\/p>\n<p>Measured waist: 66cm<\/p>\n<p>Corrective value to be applied to the pattern on the back and front: ((66-68)\/4)x0.85 =(2\/4)x0.85=0.42cm<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h1>Hip size adjustment<\/h1>\n<p>For the hips, proceed in the same way as for the waist.<\/p>\n<p>The distance to be transferred to the hip line will be :<\/p>\n<p>((actual hip measurement - hip measurement from table) \/ 4 ) x reduction rate<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-39829\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches-300x157.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"157\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches-300x157.jpg 300w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches-768x402.jpg 768w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches-18x9.jpg 18w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches-150x78.jpg 150w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches-900x471.jpg 900w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches.jpg 918w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The difficulty lies in identifying the hip line on the pattern if this is not indicated.<\/p>\n<p>As a rule of thumb, you can use the waist-to-hip distance from the measurement chart to determine its position.<\/p>\n<p>After correcting the front and back for hip size, please check the assembly lengths on the side line of the different pieces (represented by the red arrows).<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches-bis.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-39831\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches-bis-300x143.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"143\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches-bis-300x143.jpg 300w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches-bis-768x367.jpg 768w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches-bis-18x9.jpg 18w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches-bis-150x72.jpg 150w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches-bis-900x430.jpg 900w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/blog-patronnage-adaptation-hanches-bis.jpg 918w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h1>Chest adjustment<\/h1>\n<p>This is where things get a little complicated. It all depends on the swimming costume model and therefore the pattern.<\/p>\n<p>The best way to get a pattern that moulds to your shape and creates beautiful curves is to make a model with breast darts.<\/p>\n<p>If your pattern has breast darts, you will need to manipulate the darts (position, size, ....), which could be the subject of an article in its own right.<\/p>\n<p>If your pattern doesn't have bust darts, the alterations that can be made will be limited, especially for larger breasts.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h1>Specific back width adjustment<\/h1>\n<p>Certain morphologies present the specificity known as \"broad back\". This is often linked to posture and the retroversion\/anterversion of the pelvis.<\/p>\n<p>I recommend changing the position of the gusset first, ...- see the article on adapting the pattern vertically.<\/p>\n<p>But above all, I recommend opting for a pattern with a centre back assembly line like the MILA pattern. This type of pattern makes it easier to adapt to different back curves and achieve a beautiful result.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h1>Other adjustments<\/h1>\n<p>Other adjustments are possible and may be of interest - these adaptations are in fact mainly linked to the design of the jersey.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the width at the inflection point of the gusset\/bottom. It may be worth increasing the width at the inflection point to improve the 'secure' feel of the bikini.<\/li>\n<li>the depth of a plunging neckline<\/li>\n<li>the curve of the bikini line over the buttocks. This point will be developed in another article.<\/li>\n<\/ul>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Dans cet article vont \u00eatre abord\u00e9es diff\u00e9rentes notions pour identifier s\u2019il y a lieu d\u2019adapter le patron : \u00e0 la taille au tour de hanches au dessous poitrine au tour de poitrine &nbsp; Tableau des mensurations Avant de parler ajustement il faut connaitre le tableau des mensurations utilis\u00e9s pour la [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":46596,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[666],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-39647","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-adaptation-de-patrons"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Adaptation d&#039;un patron extensible - partie 3 - \u00e0 l&#039;horizontal - Idonim Lingerie<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/en\/adapting-an-extensible-pattern-part-3-to-horizontal\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Adaptation d&#039;un patron extensible - partie 3 - \u00e0 l&#039;horizontal - Idonim Lingerie\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Dans cet article vont \u00eatre abord\u00e9es diff\u00e9rentes notions pour identifier s\u2019il y a lieu d\u2019adapter le patron : \u00e0 la taille au tour de hanches au dessous poitrine au tour de poitrine &nbsp; 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