{"id":33442,"date":"2023-05-07T20:24:52","date_gmt":"2023-05-07T18:24:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/?p=33442"},"modified":"2024-11-01T15:39:43","modified_gmt":"2024-11-01T14:39:43","slug":"position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/en\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\/","title":{"rendered":"Adapting an expandable pattern - part 2 - vertical adaptation"},"content":{"rendered":"

This article is aimed at the more experienced and will require some knowledge of pattern making. It focuses on patterns such as 1-piece swimwear, bodysuits<\/strong>, \u2026\u00a0 D\u2019autres adaptations de patron sont possibles mais donneront lieu \u00e0 d\u2019autres articles.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

This article looks at a number of different concepts to help you identify whether you need to adapt :<\/p>\r\n

\u2013 le patron en verticalit\u00e9 : haut du buste et entrejambe<\/p>\r\n

\u2013 la position du fond de culotte\/entre jambe.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

Le contenu de l\u2019article est dense \u2026 n\u2019h\u00e9sitez pas \u00e0 faire des pauses, le relire, \u2026 faire des tests.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

Ce sont des notions de base \u00e0 appr\u00e9hender lorsque l\u2019on con\u00e7oit des v\u00eatements extensibles\u00a0 (avec la notion de lignes de tension).<\/p>\r\n

Table of measurements\u00a0<\/h1>\r\n

Avant de parler ajustement il faut connaitre le tableau des mensurations utilis\u00e9s pour la conception d\u2019un patron, et ceci est valable quelque soit le v\u00eatement \u00e0 ajuster.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

Pour tous les v\u00eatements tel que maillot de bain, body, culotte, \u2026 c\u2019est primordial. En effet le v\u00eatement est con\u00e7u avec un\/des taux de r\u00e9duction pour un port\u00e9 ajust\u00e9.<\/p>\r\n

Below is the table of measurements used to design our patterns (the main measurements needed to understand this article).<\/p>\r\n

MENSURATIONS \u2013 blog FR<\/a><\/p>\r\n

MENSURATIONS \u2013 blog \u2013 EN<\/a><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Vertical adjustment of the upper torso<\/h1>\r\n

To do this, we are going to look at the :<\/p>\r\n

\u2013 La distance taille \u2013 poitrine<\/h5>\r\n

How much will I have to increase or reduce the verticality of the upper torso?<\/h2>\r\n

Comparez la distance mesur\u00e9e avec celle list\u00e9e dans le tableau des donn\u00e9es utilis\u00e9es pour la conception des patrons d\u2019Idonim.<\/p>\r\n

Si la distance mesur\u00e9e est sup\u00e9rieure \u00e0 celle du tableau de taille\u00a0 \u00a0-> il va falloir augmenter le patron en verticalit\u00e9 entre la ligne de taille et la ligne de poitrine
Si la distance mesur\u00e9e est inf\u00e9rieure \u00e0 celle du tableau de taille\u00a0 -> il va falloir raccourcir le patron en verticalit\u00e9 entre la ligne de taille et la ligne de poitrine<\/p>\r\n

How can I shorten or increase the verticality of my upper torso?<\/h2>\r\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\r\n

increase<\/p>\r\n

\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\r\n

reduction<\/p>\r\n

Ajustement vertical de l\u2019entre jambe<\/h1>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

To do this, we are going to look at 2 other measures:<\/p>\r\n

\u2013 La distance taille \u2013 hanches<\/h5>\r\n
\u2013 la distance ligne de taille et le point de plus \u00e9troit de l\u2019entre jambe<\/h5>\r\n

The distance between the waist and the hips (A) is often difficult to measure for many of us. Yes, where is the hip line? This is often a source of error. We will consider that the hip line is the line or the circumference is the largest<\/strong> (e.g. passage to the tip of the buttocks).<\/p>\r\n

In our case we are also interested in the distance between the waist line and the narrowest point of the crotch (B). This distance should be measured with a tape measure held vertically. Do not place the tape measure along your body to avoid bending it! If necessary, ask for help. To do this, sit down on a chair or a flat, hard surface. \u00a0 \u00a0<\/p>\r\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\r\n

How much will I have to increase or decrease the pattern in verticality?<\/h2>\r\n

Il est n\u00e9cessaire de conna\u00eetre les donn\u00e9es\/mesures utilis\u00e9es pour la conception du patron. C\u2019est l\u00e0 que \u00a0\u00bbl\u2019histoire se corse\u00a0\u00bb. En effet toutes les donn\u00e9es et sp\u00e9cifications ne sont pas toujours publi\u00e9es avec les patrons que l\u2019on trouve dans le commerce.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

I'll make it short, you'll have to make a rule of three between the measurements you've taken and the measurements of the pattern at your size.<\/p>\r\n

Calculation to be made :
taille \u2013 hanches r\u00e9f\u00e9rence \u00a0\u00bbtableau\u00a0\u00bb \u2013 (B\/A x taille-hanche r\u00e9f\u00e9rence tableau)<\/p>\r\n

\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

Le r\u00e9sultat est positif -> il va falloir raccourcir d\u2019autant le patron en verticalit\u00e9
Le r\u00e9sultat est n\u00e9gatif -> il va falloir augmenter d\u2019autant le patron en verticalit\u00e9<\/p>\r\n


The distance to be increased or decreased will be distribute vertically at the level of the crotch<\/strong>.<\/p>\r\n

Comment raccourcir ou comment augmenter en verticalit\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019entrejambe ?<\/h2>\r\n

If you need to increase or decrease the verticality, you will have to retrace the area of the bottom of the breeches, taking care to respect the width of the gusset at the narrowest point (inflection point between the front and the back) but also not to reduce or increase the width of the bottom of the breeches at its extremities<\/p>\r\n

\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\r\n

Adjusting the position of the gusset<\/h1>\r\n

C\u2019est une notion primordiale pour moi. A conna\u00eetre et comprendre. elle vous permettra d\u2019ajuster tous les v\u00eatements tels que : culotte, maillot de bain, body, leggins, short, \u2026<\/p>\r\n

If there is one thing to remember, it is what follows.<\/p>\r\n

Its position is linked to your morphology: retroversion or anteversion of the pelvis.<\/strong><\/p>\r\n

examples:
\u2013 ant\u00e9version -> basculement du bassin ant\u00e9rieur \u2013 dos cambr\u00e9
\u2013 r\u00e9troversion -> basculement du bassin post\u00e9rieur \u2013 dos non cambr\u00e9<\/p>\r\n

*la notion de dos cambr\u00e9 ne tient pas compte de la forme des fesses (feses plates, volumineuses, \u2026) qui impactera \u00e9galement le bien all\u00e9 d\u2019une culotte, .. mais l\u00e0 c\u2019est la forme de la culotte ou maillot qui impactera principalement le port\u00e9 du v\u00eatement. Ce th\u00e8me donnera lieu \u00e0 un autre article.<\/p>\r\n

\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\r\n

\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

Comment quantifier l\u2019ant\u00e9version et r\u00e9troversion ?<\/h2>\r\n

The most complex thing is to determine how much retroversion or anteversion there is.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

La version la plus \u00a0\u00bbsimple\u00a0\u00bb est d\u2019estimer l\u2019angle form\u00e9 par une ligne passant par la pointe de l\u2019os illiaque et la symphise pubienne tel que repr\u00e9sent\u00e9 ci-dessous.<\/p>\r\n

Pour cel\u00e0 il est imp\u00e9ratif de bien se positionner de profil. N\u2019h\u00e9sitez pas \u00e0 toucher afin d\u2019identifier la position des pointes osseuses (il faut bien se baser sur la position du bassin et non du ventre)<\/p>\r\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\r\n

En r\u00e9troversion l\u2019angle pourra \u00eatre compris entre 0 \u2013 10 degr\u00e9s.<\/p>\r\n

En ant\u00e9version l\u2019angle pourra \u00eatre compris entre 0 et 22 degr\u00e9s.<\/p>\r\n

Comment modifier un patron en fonction du degr\u00e9 d\u2019inclinaison du bassin ?<\/h2>\r\n

L\u2019exemple ci-dessous est valable pour une culotte ou un bikini<\/p>\r\n

Je d\u00e9place le point d\u2019inflexion de l\u2019entre jambe de 2 cm pour 15 degr\u00e9s d\u2019inclinaison et ainsi de suite. La m\u00eame chose s\u2019applique pour l\u2019inclinaison du bassin vers l\u2019avant ou vers l\u2019arri\u00e8re.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\r\n

Just think:
\u2013 ant\u00e9version -> d\u00e9placement du fond de culotte vers le devant (permet de r\u00e9duire la longueur sur le devant et augmenter le dos\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

\u2013 r\u00e9troversion -> d\u00e9placement du fond de culotte vers le dos (permet de r\u00e9duire la longueur dos et augmenter le devant.<\/p>\r\n

You will then have to retrace the area of the bottom of the panties, taking care to respect the width of the gusset at the narrowest point (point of inflection between the front and the back) but also not to reduce or increase the width of the bottom of the panties at its extremities.<\/p>\r\n

What's next? But only for a 2-room apartment!<\/p>\r\n

-Sur le devant : ouvrir (ou fermer pour l\u2019inclinaison post\u00e9rieure) le devant de la culotte \/ ou bas de maillot de bain \u2014 si l\u2019inclinaison du bassin est de 10\u00b0 ouvrir ou fermer de respectivement 5\u00b0 de chaque c\u00f4t\u00e9.<\/p>\r\n

-Sur le dos : \u00e9largir l\u00e9g\u00e8rement ou r\u00e9duire la largeur de la culotte. Par exemple dans le cas d\u2019une inclinaison ant\u00e9rieure , l\u2019inclinaison du bassin entraine le d\u00e9placement des faces lat\u00e9rales des fesses vers l\u2019ext\u00e9rieure.<\/p>\r\n

Conclusion<\/h1>\r\n

If you need to reduce or increase the length of your torso, make this change first.<\/p>\r\n

Concernant l\u2019entre jambe le plus difficile est de souvent d\u00e9terminer comment sera r\u00e9partie l\u2019augmentation\/ diminution entre la correction en verticalit\u00e9 et la position du point d\u2019inflexion. Mais quand on y regarde de pr\u00e8s sa position est primordiale.<\/p>\r\n

Si vous avez besoin d\u2019adapter le patron pour cette raison; r\u00e9alisez l\u2019ajustement de la position du point d\u2019inflexion en premier et seulement ensuite l\u2019ajustement vertical de l\u2019entre jambe.<\/p>\r\n

\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

\u00a0<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Cet article est destin\u00e9 aux plus aguerri(e)s et n\u00e9cessitera d\u2019avoir quelques notions de patronage. Il concerne sp\u00e9cialement les patrons tels que les maillots de bain 1 pi\u00e8ce, body, \u2026\u00a0 D\u2019autres adaptations de patron sont possibles mais donneront lieu \u00e0 d\u2019autres articles.\u00a0\u00a0 Dans cet article vont \u00eatre abord\u00e9es diff\u00e9rentes notions pour […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":46596,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[666],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-33442","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-adaptation-de-patrons"],"yoast_head":"\nAdaptation d'un patron extensible - partie 2 - adaptation en verticalit\u00e9 - Idonim Lingerie<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Avec cet article vous apprendrez \u00e0 adapter un patron d'un v\u00eatement extensible en verticalit\u00e9 tel que maillot de bain, body, ...\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/en\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Adaptation d'un patron extensible - partie 2 - adaptation en verticalit\u00e9 - Idonim Lingerie\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Avec cet article vous apprendrez \u00e0 adapter un patron d'un v\u00eatement extensible en verticalit\u00e9 tel que maillot de bain, body, ...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/en\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Idonim Lingerie\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2023-05-07T18:24:52+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2024-11-01T14:39:43+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronnage-ajustement-buste-1-300x172.jpg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Chantal Petit\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Chantal Petit\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Estimated reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"9 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Chantal Petit\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/59dc2a20f35856fd1701dbb2efa22cd9\"},\"headline\":\"Adaptation d’un patron extensible – partie 2 – adaptation en verticalit\u00e9\",\"datePublished\":\"2023-05-07T18:24:52+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2024-11-01T14:39:43+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":1402,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2025\\\/10\\\/article-rectangle.webp\",\"articleSection\":[\"Adaptation de patrons\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\\\/\",\"name\":\"Adaptation d'un patron extensible - 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