{"id":33442,"date":"2023-05-07T20:24:52","date_gmt":"2023-05-07T18:24:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/?p=33442"},"modified":"2026-07-25T23:16:00","modified_gmt":"2026-07-25T21:16:00","slug":"position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/en\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\/","title":{"rendered":"Adapting an expandable pattern - part 2 - vertical adaptation"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>This article is aimed at the more experienced and will require some knowledge of pattern making. It focuses on patterns such as<strong> 1-piece swimwear, bodysuits<\/strong>Other pattern adaptations are possible, but will be covered in other articles.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<p>This article looks at a number of different concepts to help you identify whether you need to adapt :<\/p>\r\n<p>- the vertical pattern: upper torso and crotch<\/p>\r\n<p>- the position of the bottom of the trousers\/between the legs.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<p>The content of the article is dense ... feel free to pause, reread it, ... test it.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<p>These are basic concepts to be understood when designing stretch garments (with the notion of tension lines).<\/p>\r\n<h1>Table of measurements\u00a0<\/h1>\r\n<p>Before talking about fitting, you need to know the table of measurements used to design a pattern, and this applies whatever the garment to be fitted.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<p>For all garments such as swimwear, bodysuits, knickers, etc., this is essential. The garment is designed with one or more reduction rates for a snug fit.<\/p>\r\n<p>Below is the table of measurements used to design our patterns (the main measurements needed to understand this article).<\/p>\r\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/MENSURATIONS-blog-FR.pdf\">MENSURATIONS - blog FR<\/a><\/p>\r\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/MENSURATIONS-blog-EN-1.pdf\">MENSURATIONS - blog - EN<\/a><\/p>\r\n<!-- \/wp:post-content -->\r\n\r\n<!-- wp:heading -->\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n<p><strong>We will offer you two methods<\/strong><\/p>\r\n<ul>\r\n<li><strong>Une premi\u00e8re m\u00e9thode tr\u00e8s pr\u00e9cise qui dissocie l&rsquo;ajustement vertical du haut et du bas du buste<\/strong><\/li>\r\n<li><strong>and a second, simpler and more general method<\/strong><\/li>\r\n<\/ul>\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n<h1>1- METHOD 1 (detailed precise but more complex)<\/h1>\r\n<h1>1-1 Upper torso vertical adjustment<\/h1>\r\n<p>To do this, we are going to look at the :<\/p>\r\n<h5>- Waist-to-chest distance<\/h5>\r\n<h2>How much will I have to increase or reduce the verticality of the upper torso?<\/h2>\r\n<p>Compare the distance measured with that listed in the table of data used to design the Idonim patterns.<\/p>\r\n<p>If the distance measured is greater than that on the size chart -&gt; the vertical pattern between the waist line and the bust line will have to be increased.<br \/>If the measured distance is less than the distance on the size chart -&gt; the pattern will have to be shortened vertically between the waist line and the bust line.<\/p>\r\n<h2>How can I shorten or increase the verticality of my upper torso?<\/h2>\r\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronnage-ajustement-buste-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-38865\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronnage-ajustement-buste-1-300x172.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"172\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronnage-ajustement-buste-1-300x172.jpg 300w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronnage-ajustement-buste-1-18x10.jpg 18w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronnage-ajustement-buste-1-150x86.jpg 150w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronnage-ajustement-buste-1.jpg 756w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\r\n<p>increase<\/p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronage-ajustement-buste-2-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-38862\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronage-ajustement-buste-2-1-300x106.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"106\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronage-ajustement-buste-2-1-300x106.jpg 300w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronage-ajustement-buste-2-1-1024x363.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronage-ajustement-buste-2-1-768x273.jpg 768w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronage-ajustement-buste-2-1-18x6.jpg 18w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronage-ajustement-buste-2-1-150x53.jpg 150w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronage-ajustement-buste-2-1-900x319.jpg 900w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/patronage-ajustement-buste-2-1.jpg 1172w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\r\n<p>reduction<\/p>\r\n<h1>1-2 Ajustement vertical de l&rsquo;entre jambe<\/h1>\r\n<!-- \/wp:heading -->\r\n\r\n<!-- wp:paragraph -->\r\n<p>To do this, we are going to look at 2 other measures:<\/p>\r\n<h5>- Waist to hip distance<\/h5>\r\n<h5>- the distance between the waistline and the narrowest point of the crotch<\/h5>\r\n<p>The distance between the waist and the hips (A) is often difficult to measure for many of us. Yes, where is the hip line? This is often a source of error. We will consider that the hip line is the line or the circumference is<strong> the largest<\/strong> (e.g. passage to the tip of the buttocks).<\/p>\r\n<p>In our case we are also interested in the distance between the waist line and the narrowest point of the crotch (B). This distance should be measured with a tape measure held vertically. Do not place the tape measure along your body to avoid bending it! If necessary, ask for help. To do this, sit down on a chair or a flat, hard surface. \u00a0 \u00a0<\/p>\r\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/schema-morpho.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-33488\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/schema-morpho-229x300.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"229\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/schema-morpho-229x300.png 229w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/schema-morpho-9x12.png 9w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/schema-morpho-115x150.png 115w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/schema-morpho.png 361w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 229px) 100vw, 229px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\r\n<h2>How much will I have to increase or decrease the pattern in verticality?<\/h2>\r\n<p>It is necessary to know the data\/measures used in the design of the pattern. This is where the story gets complicated. Not all the data and specifications are published with the commercially available patterns.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n<p>I'll make it short, you'll have to make a rule of three between the measurements you've taken and the measurements of the pattern at your size.<\/p>\r\n<p>Calculation to be made :<br \/>waist - hips table reference - (B\/A x waist-hip table reference)<\/p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n<p>The result is positive -&gt; the pattern will have to be shortened in verticality<br \/>The result is negative -&gt; the vertical pattern will have to be increased by the same amount<\/p>\r\n<p><br \/>The distance to be increased or decreased will be <strong>distribute vertically at the level of the crotch<\/strong>.<\/p>\r\n<h2>How can I shorten or increase the verticality of my crotch?<\/h2>\r\n<p>If you need to increase or decrease the verticality, you will have to retrace the area of the bottom of the breeches, taking care to respect the width of the gusset at the narrowest point (inflection point between the front and the back) but also not to reduce or increase the width of the bottom of the breeches at its extremities<\/p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-base-2-1-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-33483\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-base-2-1-300x190.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"190\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-base-2-1-300x190.jpg 300w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-base-2-1-1024x649.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-base-2-1-768x487.jpg 768w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-base-2-1-1536x974.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-base-2-1-2048x1298.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-base-2-1-18x12.jpg 18w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-base-2-1-150x95.jpg 150w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-base-2-1-900x570.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-2-reduction-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-33484\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-2-reduction-300x195.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"195\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-2-reduction-300x195.jpg 300w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-2-reduction-1024x664.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-2-reduction-768x498.jpg 768w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-2-reduction-1536x996.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-2-reduction-2048x1328.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-2-reduction-18x12.jpg 18w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-2-reduction-150x97.jpg 150w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-2-reduction-900x584.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-1-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-33485\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-1-300x184.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"184\" srcset=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-1-300x184.jpg 300w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-1-1024x628.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-1-768x471.jpg 768w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-1-1536x941.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-1-2048x1255.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-1-18x12.jpg 18w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-1-150x92.jpg 150w, https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/ajustement-vertical-1-900x552.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\r\n<h1>1- METHOD 2 (simpler but simplified, general)<\/h1>\r\n<p><strong>L&rsquo;ajustement sera uniform\u00e9ment r\u00e9alis\u00e9 au niveau de la ligne de taille. Pour chaque \u00e9cart de 5cm de stature, ajoutez ou retirez\u00a0 1,5cm au niveau de la ligne de taille. Cette valeur est ensuite r\u00e9partie uniform\u00e9ment de part et d&rsquo;autre de la ligne de taille. \u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\r\n<div style=\"width: 1140px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-33442-1\" width=\"1140\" height=\"641\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/mp4\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/MODIFIER-SES-PATRONS-etape-1-1.mp4?_=1\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/MODIFIER-SES-PATRONS-etape-1-1.mp4\">https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/MODIFIER-SES-PATRONS-etape-1-1.mp4<\/a><\/video><\/div>\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n<p>SI votre stature n\u00e9cessite d&rsquo;augmenter votre patron de plus de 4 cm vous pouvez r\u00e9partir l&rsquo;augmentation sur la ligne de taille et une ligne au-dessus de la poitrine afin d&rsquo;homog\u00e9n\u00e9iser l&rsquo;adaptation et de ne pas la concentrer sur la ligne de taille.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n<div style=\"width: 1140px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-33442-2\" width=\"1140\" height=\"641\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/mp4\" src=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/MODIFIER-SES-PATRONS-etape-2-1.mp4?_=2\" \/><a href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/MODIFIER-SES-PATRONS-etape-2-1.mp4\">https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/MODIFIER-SES-PATRONS-etape-2-1.mp4<\/a><\/video><\/div>\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n<h1>Conclusion<\/h1>\r\n<p>If you need to reduce or increase the length of your torso, make this change first.<\/p>\r\n<p>Concernant l&rsquo;entre jambe le plus difficile est de souvent d\u00e9terminer comment sera r\u00e9partie l\u2019augmentation\/ diminution entre la correction en verticalit\u00e9. Une notion primordiale est la position du point d&rsquo;inflexion. Je vous conseille vivement de consulter l&rsquo;article concernant l&rsquo;adaptation &#8211; partie n\u00b03<\/p>\r\n<p>If you need to adjust the pattern for this reason, adjust the position of the inflection point first and only then the vertical adjustment of the crotch.<\/p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\r\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Cet article est destin\u00e9 aux plus aguerri(e)s et n\u00e9cessitera d\u2019avoir quelques notions de patronage. Il concerne sp\u00e9cialement les patrons tels que les maillots de bain 1 pi\u00e8ce, body, &#8230;\u00a0 D&rsquo;autres adaptations de patron sont possibles mais donneront lieu \u00e0 d&rsquo;autres articles.\u00a0\u00a0 Dans cet article vont \u00eatre abord\u00e9es diff\u00e9rentes notions pour [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":46596,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[667],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-33442","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-patronage"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Adaptation d&#039;un patron extensible - partie 2 - adaptation en verticalit\u00e9 - Idonim Lingerie<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Avec cet article vous apprendrez \u00e0 adapter un patron d&#039;un v\u00eatement extensible en verticalit\u00e9 tel que maillot de bain, body, ...\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/en\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Adaptation d&#039;un patron extensible - partie 2 - adaptation en verticalit\u00e9 - Idonim Lingerie\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Avec cet article vous apprendrez \u00e0 adapter un patron d&#039;un v\u00eatement extensible en verticalit\u00e9 tel que maillot de bain, body, ...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/en\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Idonim Lingerie\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2023-05-07T18:24:52+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2026-07-25T21:16:00+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/idonim-lingerie.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/article-rectangle.webp\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1200\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"754\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/webp\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Chantal Petit\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Chantal Petit\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Estimated reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"6 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/position-du-bassin-et-adaptation-de-patron\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Chantal Petit\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/idonim-lingerie.fr\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/59dc2a20f35856fd1701dbb2efa22cd9\"},\"headline\":\"Adaptation d&rsquo;un patron extensible &#8211; 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